Hey there! Today I am showing you some of my most worn pants (trousers) that I pattern hacked to have comfy (and I think flattering and tummy supportive) yoga waist bands!
So basically I think you can probably do this with any pants sewing pattern - I used the Hudson Pant Pattern by True Bias Patterns and simply transformed the waist band from an elastic waist band top to a yoga waist band.
I have now made this pattern hack several times - I think 4 altogether - 2 for me for general wear around the house, and for surf trips, and I've even worn them to work on occasion (especially the wool woven pair). I've also 2 other pairs for friends for after they had C section pregnancies as they have a super gentle but supportive waist band that won't dig in.
So heres how its done - its super simple.
1. Make the pattern
Simply make up the pants as per the pattern instructions leaving out the waist band. You could use the Hudson Pants by True Bias Patterns as I have, the Moji Pants by Seamwork Magazine or the Anima Pants by Papercut Patterns (yay NZ pattern company!) or any other sweatpants type pattern you have already.
2. Create inverted pleats
Feeling inspired by these So Boho Shorts from Chalky Digits (yay - also amazing NZ company!) I wanted to include some pleats at the top and make a little feature out of them, and since I wasn't putting in an elastic waist band there was extra fabric to be able to do this. So I figured out how big to make the waist band and then added pleats as needed to take up the additional fabric in the top of the pants.
I think the type of pleats I have used are 'inverted pleats' - google that if you're not sure - but all I did was to make a straight line down, sew down 5 - 10cm and leave it open at the end rather than tapering it off. You can put in how ever many you need, what ever you like the look of.
3. Cut your waist band
The width of your waist band will depend on how much stretch your fabric has, and how thick it is. Mine are both made from merino with 4 way stretch, one slightly thicker than the other (and I think the thicker one works better, as it retains its stretch better).
I measured my hips (107cm) and stomach and brought it in a little - as you need quite a bit of negative ease with this and you want it to be quite firm. The best way to check is to cut it out and then wrap it around you as you would wear it and then mark where it feels a good really snug fit. (also remember to wash your merino first so that it won't shrink!!). You may need to sew the seam a few times and put it on to check its snug enough! My waist band is 84cm width with seam allowance (1 - 1.5cm) - so a good 23cm less than my hip measurement.
The height of the waist band should be quite generous, mine are 54cm high with seam allowance (of 1 - 1.5cm) This means when its folded over it will be 27cm width (and eventually with seam allowances used and folded over again it will be a finished height of around 12 - 13cm high). Obviously you can make it more or less depending on what you would like.
4. Sew side seam
Fold over your fabric as marked below and sew together. The second illustration shows where your seam should be, and how the fabric folds down after to hide the seam. You won't see it at all when you are finished.
5. Attach the waist band
Once you have sewn a single seam down the side and folded it over, all you have to do is attach like a regular waist band (with a stretch stitch or an overlocked edge) and then fold the top down and you are done!
Here are my versions - the first quite a light weight merino wool (in hindsite it might have benefited from being a little thicker!!) and the second a wool suiting fabric (woven so i cut it a couple of sizes bigger due to no stretch) with merino cuffs and yoga waist. I wear these all the time! So comfy.
Second pair - with woven wool suiting fabric (size up x 2):